Background, 'Old' NOS KHS Alloy 7005 Frame
A few years ago, I've bought a 58cm 'KHS' 7005 aluminum frame with carbon rear and chain stays as a NOS (New Old Stock), without guarantee, from a dealer. After an initial cheap price, I've negotiated to an even lower price for NT$1,700 or ~US$ 62.00 at the time, I am writing this.
The bike was built up with some 9-speed mountain bike parts which served me well in the past. The ride quality was a little harsh even with the carbon stays. I had a lot of joy and took some tours to the South of Taiwan. I even rode some bike challenges on it and was very satisfied with the overall bike.
Unfortunately, the frame developed a cracking noise from the front chainwheel, and looking roughly over it, I've decided to buy a new bottom bracket. But the sound did not stop and became even more noticeable. Back home I took a closer look and found that, after further investigation with a flashlight, a thin hairline crack above the bottom bracket. Only after one additional ride, did the original fine black line spread even further to the seat tube (!). From my estimation, this original cheap frame was beyond reasonable repair.
While riding bikes, many people listen to music through buttons in their ears. I don't do that because I want to feel and listen to my bike and my surroundings. This way, I can detect some irregular sounds of possible problem/s.
For example, I once heard a very regular pitching sound on my front wheel. I stopped and discovered a wire tangled around the free hub of the front wheel, its end gave the sound I felt annoyed about. The previously mentioned crack was noticed because I could hear it through my pedal strokes.
Replacement
After the surprise failure of my frame, I went online and searched for a cheap replacement. It should accept most (spare) parts from the 'broken' bike; the head tube inner diameter should accompany my 1 1/8' carbon fork, and the bottom bracket should have a thread for the widely available BSA (or JIS). Above all, the frame should be reasonably priced and light.
'New' NOS Fastrax Scandium Frame
I've discovered a NOS (new old stock) Fastrax 56 cm (both center-center seat tube and c-c top tube) Scandium race bike frame for a very reasonable NT$2.500 (~US$90.00) plus shipping. I could use nearly all older parts except for a new headset and a seat post, which grew from 27.2 mm to a larger 31.6 mm diameter.
Scandium
After receiving my order, the scale showed a very respectable weight of 1.200 grams for the 56 cm frame. Scandium is an expensive but very light metal, it is a potent grain refiner that can increase the yield and tensile strengths of alloys up to 30 percent, depending on the material (pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov). The result is a lighter and stronger frame with less rigid or harsh ride qualities than a comparable 'pure' aluminum frame without scandium.
1st Life
I've built up the frame with a carbon fork and 'old' Shimona Sora R3000 9-speed group and rode on my old and very basic Shimano RS010 wheelset. The overall ride quality was 'softer' than the previous 7005 alloy frame with carbon stays. Even though the riding position was more aggressive, I've made some nice tours and had a lot of fun with the bike.
Hesitations
Don't get me wrong, the Sora parts worked well. But fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your point of view, I've built up another 'Italian Style' bike using the latest Shimano 105 (R7000) parts. Comparing both systems, I found that the Sora's felt slow and sometimes unreliable. Especially when downshifting the front derailleur uphill under pressure, some miss-shifts send me nearly flying over the bar!
While I continued riding my red 'Italian bike' I decided to transfer the Sora parts, Deda handlebar/Ritchey stem combination, and Shimano chain wheels from my Fastrax racing bike to my more leisurely mountain bike. The frame and fork of the Fastrax bike were sitting 'lonely' on Shimano wheels somewhere in a corner...
2nd Life
Jumping on my red Italian 'Peloton' bike I felt right at home immediately. Everything just fit like a glove, the ride was comfy, stable, and subsequently fast. With your own bike built you can freely choose whatever part/s fit/s your size, color, purpose, etc., and, very importantly, your wallet.
Once I've met a very young rider, a Junior High School student. He had a great bike with top-of-the-line equipment and parts. While talking, he told me that his grandfather bought it for him. I joked "that only his wheelset alone might be more expensive than my whole bike." He looked at me and asked me "what do think my wheelset cost?"
"I think around NT$40,000 (~US$ 1442.00)", I answered.
"Add another NT$10.000 (~US$360.00) and you are almost there", he said very casually.
When you have a sponsor, my homepage might be right for you...
But I've noticed one significant difference comparing both bikes: the red Peleton's wheelbase is around 5 cm longer, putting it in the Gran Fondo (long-distance road cycling) category. The white/blue bike is a true racer: very agile; downhill and through tight twists it feels 'lively', the rider has to work more on and with it.
I missed these physical and mental challenges, especially during longer rides and, after some serious considerations, I've decided to rebuild the scandium frame with some modern upgrades.
Ride carefully, Gerhard
A Word of Caution
Always ride with a helmet and in a way that you are in control of the bike and not the other way around. Ride responsibly and defensively, be prepared for a worst-case scenario! It is senseless to gain some seconds but spends weeks to recover in a hospital and/or at home for a stupid action! You, your body, your parents, your family, and friends will surely appreciate your precautions before, during, and after a bike ride.
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