My Wheeler Mountain Winter Bike (1)
Updated: Oct 22
In addition to my racing and endurance road bikes, I have decided that I need a practical bike with a sturdy rear carrier for activities such as shopping and recycling paper and metal waste. In Taiwan, the country of my choice and love, everyone can collect and sell metal waste not only to help the environment but also earn a little money while cycling—just like a professional bike rider...
After transforming my 26" mountain bike into a 700c road bike, I rode it for a while. However, when I got the opportunity to acquire a nice NOS (New Old Stock) BMC Streetfire SS02 frame, I transferred most of the components from this converted 26-inch road bike to the new one. The leftover components, including the MTB frame, fork, and wheelset, were stored at home. For the new project, I decided to reinstall the original or "old" parts. This bike will be my daily work bike, adaptable enough to be a comfortable city bike for short tours - a Swiss army knife of a bike.
Most importantly, it should, as usual, be a budget-friendly build by using as many old parts as possible.
Frame and Fork
Frame: Wheeler 2900 pro
The frame is a flat black painted NOS (new old stock) 21" MTB frame designed for 26" wheels. It features mounting points for a rear rack, which is essential for attaching both of my bags to the bike.
-tubing: alloy 6061, heavier but sturdier plain gauge according to my internet research. The frame has a warning sticker but I could not find a material sticker)
-head tube: 1 1/8" integrated head tube, with widely available bearings that require no special tools
-BB bracket: Traditional British Standard Cycle (BSA) bottom brackets, which measure 68mm, are widely available.
Although many people prefer steel frames over aluminum, I personally favor alloy frames. Advances in materials and welding technology have improved their reliability and eliminated the harshness often associated with them. Additionally, unlike steel, alloy frames do not rust. The paint on the frame was still in good condition. After a good clean, it was good to go...
Fork: unbranded
The bicycle has a suspension fork design, but I chose to use a road alloy fork with a bolt hole on each leg. The original fork was DIY painted black and had several scuffs from being stored. I used fine sandpaper to smooth the surface, then applied a white primer as the first coat, followed by a glossy black finish. While I was painting, some drops of white primer unintentionally landed on the black leg, creating an unexpectedly interesting effect. After I coated the entire fork in black, I sprayed some white primer from a distance, which resulted in a look reminiscent of a starry night or a misty scene.
Yes, there are anodized alloy spacers in the colors of the official German flag: black, red, and gold on the steerer tube. These colors represent my heritage and pay tribute to the country where I was born and raised, which has given me so much!
Steering
Handlebar: unbranded
Initially, I installed a classic straight 31.8mm MTB handlebar with an alloy stem on my bike. However, I soon realized that my wrists ached from the unfamiliar position after the first ride. While browsing for new handlebars online, I remembered to check my parts bin first. There, I found a slightly scratched older 25.4mm alloy handlebar with an ergonomic back sweep that would provide a more comfortable position. In a drawer of my bookshelf, I also discovered the matching stem that had been sitting there for quite some time.
I relocated my bar ends from the outside to a position closer to the stem inside the handlebar. After making this adjustment, I noticed that the handlebar and, consequently, the front wheel became unbalanced when I pushed forward on them to simulate an aero position.
Stem: unbranded
This 130mm chromoly (chrome molybdenum) stem dates back to my time working for a Taiwanese trading company in 1991. It was originally a sample for a mountain bike that featured a unique steerer clamp integrated into the stem, rather than the typical two bolts on the back. From the rider's perspective, this design appears very sleek. The steel construction also helps absorb some of the rough vibrations during the ride.
Saddle/Seat post
Currently, I have a low-name saddle mounted on an older Easton EA50 alloy seat post. Despite inflating the rear tire to the recommended pressure, it still did not feel steady. However, after I replaced the seat post with an older 3T model and fitted it with good used 26" Continental Grand Prix tires, the stability of the rear end significantly improved. This change has made riding at higher speeds or when fully loaded much more stable and comfortable.
Drivetrain
The main concept behind the bike was to utilize older parts. When it came to the drivetrain, I had almost everything I needed stored in various boxes, except for the front derailleur. Some people might question the combination of Shimano and SRAM components, but in the case of 9-speed systems, it’s generally acceptable to mix and match.
Shifter: SRAM X7, 3*9
I took out my trusty old SRAM X7, 3x9 shifters from the box. I've had them since 2007, having purchased them after returning from a bike trip from Los Angeles to San Francisco the previous year. I specifically chose these shifters as an alternative to Shimano, and they have proven to be dependable, working well with the SRAM X7 rear derailleur. The alloy shifter clamp has lost some of its color, giving it a nicely worn look.
Front Derailleur, Shimano FD-T660/661
I only had a working 2x front derailleur, so I needed to buy a new one. I chose the NOX Shimano LX FD-T660/661 front derailleur because most 3x9 MTB front derailleurs are designed to accommodate a maximum of 44T front chainring. I wanted the option to upgrade to a 48T chainring later if I desired more speed.
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X7, 3*9
I have been using these components in my shifters since 1999. Although I don’t have the exact part number, I remember purchasing the long cage version, which is compatible with up to a 34T sprocket. They work well with the X7 shifters. Recently, I came across an interesting video on how to rebuild a SRAM X7 rear derailleur.
-Cassette:
Shimano offers a variety of 9-speed cassettes.
-Chain: KMC X9SL
A few years ago, I purchased a KMC X9SL (super light) chain from Taiwan. I haven't ridden extensively since I have other bikes, and my chain gauge indicates that it's still in good condition, so I continue to use it. Next time, I might opt for a gold chain at the same price. In terms of quality, KMC chains are comparable to Shimano, and in Taiwan, they are more cost-effective than the Japanese-made versions.
Comments