My Wheeler mountain winter bike (1)

Besides my racing and endurance road bikes, I've decided I needed a practical bike with a robust rear carrier for activities like shopping and recycling paper and metal waste. In Taiwan, you can sell items you want to dispose of, which allows me to not only help the environment but also make a little money through cycling - just like a pro...

After transforming my 26" mountain bike into a 700c road bike, I used it for a while. However, when I got the opportunity to acquire a nice NOS (New Old Stock) BMC Streetfire SS02 frame, I moved most of the parts from my converted 26" road bike onto it. The leftover components, including the MTB frame, fork, and wheelset, were stored at home. For the new project, I've decided to reinstall the original or 'old' parts. This bike will be my daily work bike, adaptable enough to be a comfortable city bike for short tours - a Swiss army knife of a bike.

Most importantly, it should, as usual, be a budget-friendly build by using as many old parts as possible.

Frame and Fork

• Frame: Wheeler 2900 pro

The frame is a flat black NOS (new old stock) 21" MTB frame designed for 26" wheels. It includes mounting points for a rear rack, which is essential for attaching both of my bags to the bike.

tubing: alloy 6061 plain gauge (according to the internet, the frame has a warning sticker but lacks a material sticker)

head tube: 1 1/8" integrated head tube, with widely available bearings that require no special tools

bb bracket: BSA, 68mm, commonly available

While many prefer steel frames over aluminum, I am fond of alloy frames. The material and welding technology have advanced over the years; the harshness is gone, and the frame is very reliable. Additionally, unlike steel, there is no rust issue.

The paint was still in good condition, so I simply cleaned it for the build.

• Fork: unbranded

The frame is a suspension fork design, but I used a road alloy fork with a bolt hole on each leg. The original fork was DIY painted black and had some scuffs from storage. I smoothed the surface with sandpaper and sprayed it first with a white primer base, followed by a shiny black color. Some drops from the white base unintentionally covered the other black leg, which came out surprisingly interesting. After painting the whole fork black, I sprayed some white base coat from a distance, giving it a starry, starry night or misty look.

Yes, there is a German flag on the steerer tube as a connection to my heritage - the country in which I was born and that gave me so much!

The full ally fork (steerer and legs) after a starry DIY paint

Steering

• Handlebar: unbranded

Initially, I installed a classic straight 31.8mm MTB handlebar with an alloy stem on the bike. I must admit that my wrists ached from the unfamiliar position after the first ride. While I checked out some bars on the internet, I recalled that I should first check my parts bin. There, I found a slightly scratched older 25.4mm alloy handlebar with an ergonomic back sweep for a more comfortable position. In a drawer of my bookshelf, I discovered the matching stem that had been waiting there for quite some years.

I relocated my bar ends from the outside to somewhere inside the bar. When I mounted them closer to the stem, I found the handlebar, and consequently the front wheel, became unbalanced as I was pushed on them forward to mimic an aero position.

• Stem: unbranded

This 130mm chromoly (chrome molybdenum) stem was from my time working for a Taiwanese trading company back in 1991. It was initially a sample for a mountain bike featuring a distinctive steerer clamp within the stem, as opposed to the usual two bolts on the back. From the rider's viewpoint, it appears very sleek. The steel construction helps to absorb some rougher vibrations during the ride.

CRMO stem with internal steerer clamp

Saddle/Seat post

At present, I ride a low-named saddle that was initially installed on an older Easton EA50 alloy seat post. But, despite inflating the tire to the recommended pressure, the rear tire did not feel steady enough to me. However, after replacing the seat post with an older 3T one and putting on good used 26" Continental Grand Prix tires, the entire rear end became significantly more stable for riding at higher speeds or when fully loaded.

Drivetrain

The whole idea behind the bike was using older parts. Concerning the drivetrain, I had everything except for the front derailleur in different boxes. Some might wonder about the Shimano-SRAM mix; everything in 9-speed can generally be mixed and matched.

• Shifter: SRAM X7, 3*9

I pulled out my trusty old SRAM X7, 3x9, from the box. They've been with me since 2007. I purchased them after coming back from a bike trip from Los Angeles to San Francisco the previous year. I specifically chose them as an alternative to Shimano shifters, and they've been dependable and worked well with the SRAM X7 rear derailleur. The color on the alloy shifter clamp has peeled off a bit, giving it a nicely worn look.

• Front Derailleur, Shimano FD-T660/661

I had only a working 2x front derailleur and therefore had to buy a new one. I've decided on a NOX Shimano LX FD-T660/661 front derailleur because most 3x9 MTB front derailleurs are only designed for 44T (teeth) front chainwheels. I wanted the freedom to upgrade to 48T at a later point when the urge for more speed would arise.

• Rear Derailleur: SRAM X7, 3*9

They have been a part of my shifters since 1999. I don't have the exact part number, but I surely remember that I bought the long cage version with up to 34T. They work well with the X& shifters. I found an interesting video on how to rebuild a SRAM X7 (rear) derailleur:

-Cassette:

One of Shimano's many 9-speed cassettes

-Chain: KMC X9SL

A few years back, I bought a KMC X9SL (super light) chain from Taiwan. I haven't ridden extensively since I have other bikes, and my chain gauge shows they're still in good condition, so I continue to use them. Next time, I might choose a gold chain at the same price. Quality-wise, they're on par with Shimano chains, and in Taiwan, they're more cost-effective than the Japanese-made versions.

(to be continued)