My Wheeler mountain winter bike (2)

(continued from part 1)

Braking

• Lever: Tektro

I used my vintage Taiwanese MTB Tektro 4-finger brake levers made from aluminum. Many might not realize that in the 1990s, there were also lighter 2-finger levers available. However, these are too narrow and not very comfortable for road cycling or long tours. Like all older alloy components, the paint on these parts tends to peel. While some might find this unattractive, I view it as character.

• V-Brakes: Tektro 855AL

Even though my friend at the bike parts store suggested switching to disc brakes, I chose to continue using V-Brakes as a DIY mechanic. They are cost-effective, easy to install, and deliver precise and reliable braking when correctly adjusted. I upgraded the brake pads to high-quality used red/black Kool Stops, which I recommend for enhanced braking performance and to protect the alloy rims due to their softer yet stickier rubber material.

Tektro 855 AL V-brakes

Kool Stop Dura 2 Rim Pads

The internet is full of individuals encouraging me to switch to disc brakes. However, as I'm not a racer and prefer to avoid the chemicals involved with hydraulic discs, I choose mechanical V brakes. They're easy to install, and both the cables and brake pads are simple to maintain and replace. In traffic, I keep my fingers lightly on the levers in case I need to stop quickly. These V brakes provide me with reliable and adequate stopping power, ensuring my peace of mind.

Wheelset

As mentioned, I used my old MTB wheelset, the rim, the spokes and the hubs were all fine - I would say around 80% new.

• Rim:

Front: KD Rims, 6061-T6 alloy (manufactured in Taiwan), featuring 28 straight round spokes and Bitex hubs with sealed bearings (also made in Taiwan)

Rear: Mountain Sport rims, alloy, equipped with 28 aero spokes and Shimano Deore hubs.

• Tire & Tube:

Front & rear tire: Kenda Kwick Roller Sport folding, 26' x 1.5 (40-559), tubes: Kenda 1.5/1.75 F/V.

After experiencing the performance of the original Kenda tires, I replaced the rear tire with a 'made in Germany' Continental Grand Prix 26' folding 1 1/8 (28-559) road tire. The bike's responsiveness and acceleration improved dramatically, elevating the entire bike to a new level. I would like to replace the front tire with the same Continentals, but I sold the second one before this build.

Comments on the wheelset and the tires

The wheelset is sturdy and performing well, so I'm not too concerned about the aero spokes on the rear. My friend recommended the Kenda tires for their high quality, but they feel sluggish and heavy when riding. Although these Kendas offer a smoother ride over road surfaces compared to my narrower 25mm road tires, they lack grip on wet roads, as I slipped on a rubber surface at a very slow speed.

Later, I used my other rear wheelset, which already had Continental Grand Prix tires, 26*1 1/8 (28-559), that were mounted some time ago. These tires provide a noticeably different experience compared to the Kenda's. Featuring the same material, construction, and design as Continental's larger 700c models, they deliver the same high-quality feel as my road bike and roll much faster than their Taiwan-made counterparts.

Based on my experience, 26' wheels and tire sizes are becoming increasingly rare, not only in Taiwan. With the growing popularity of 700c tires for road and gravel bikes and the transition in standard mountain bike tires from 26' to 27.5' and even 29', the original 26' size is losing its appeal and is considered an outsider in the industry. It is becoming more difficult to find lightweight rim brake wheelsets, and there is limited development in 26' road tires. You can find quality 700c road tires weighing around 200g each, while the smaller 26' tires weigh about 500g each.

On this frame I could get up to 700c or 29' wheels, but not every MTB frame has the space required for changing to larger wheels.

Assembling

Because I already had most of the parts and some experience in building bikes from components, the entire process was quite seamless. I possessed the necessary specialized tools, like those for the bottom bracket, and everyone has hex or Allen keys in different sizes at home—having a sharp cable cutter is crucial!

As I mentioned, I had to purchase

-a front derailleur

-a new set of rear V-brakes for safety reasons

and I opted for a new square tapered crankset with a traditional 113.5 sealed bottom bracket.

Before starting the assembly process, I imagined the bike I wanted to create to meet my needs. I selected the parts, and it was incredibly satisfying not only to put it together piece by piece but also to see it become a finished product.

I'm proud of finding the 'old' 25.4 handlebar/stem combination in silver, which stands out against the prevalent black here in Taiwan. I restored the fork from a damaged original by smoothing out the scratches and painting it on a smooth base coat as a unique piece myself.

Costs

Since some components came from the original build and my parts bin, it's challenging to assign a price to the entire bike. I purchased some new parts for functionality and safety, specifically:

- crankset including bottom bracket: USD 24.00

- front derailleur: USD 15.00

- cantilever brakes (front and rear): USD 10.00

I spent about USD 49.00 on new parts, excluding shipping, with the remainder being an inventive form of recycling. Compared to a mid-range road bike, this build was quite cost-effective. Although I won't assign a price to the value of my hands, body, and soul, the joy from building it certainly contributed to extending my life expectancy.

Riding Experiences

The bike was designed and built to withstand tough conditions with exceptional stability, basically a true mountain bike. This stability is essential when carrying loads up to 25 kg on the rack and in both clip-on bags, whether for shopping or paper recycling. The wider tires help smooth out Taiwan's poor-quality roads with bumps and occasional cracks. While riding on these surfaces, I learn to take it easy and brake gently.

This 'working bike' is equipped with flat, wide pedals suitable for everyday shoes, although I prefer clipless pedals with cleated shoes. I have the flexibility to ride in any shoes I like and walk freely after cycling. The upright seating position enables me to see further and let me better anticipate approaching traffic. Overall, it is a very nice bike that I enjoy a lot.

Some thoughts...

In Taiwan, I can watch Eurosport, which broadcasts a wide range of cycling sports, including road cycling, cyclocross, and mountain bike races, among others. While many cyclists try to emulate these sports on their personal rides, it's not recommended to do so on public roads. Most individuals don't have sponsors, a mechanic to fix problems during rides, or someone to supply food and drinks along the way.

Even though I own both a road racing bike and an endurance road bike, this Wheeler mountain winter bike has reignited the original joy that got me into cycling. I don't need special cycling gear (except for the shorts), I can wear any shoes with my flat pedals, and my saddle bags offer plenty of space for carrying items not just on cycling tours but also for shopping, recycling, and more.

This bike allows me to ride without the pressure to perform, whether I'm alone or with others. Its upright position enables me to enjoy the surroundings, appreciate the view, and notice any potential dangers. I can pause to take a photo whenever something catches my eye. I leave this bike unlocked outside convenience stores or coffee shops, cherishing time with my family and friends.

Isn't this the real joy of cycling?

The bike in touring mode...

...and in paper recycling mode

Dream on, Gerhard

 -The end of the story but the beginning of new chapters-