Shimano LX FD-T660/661 Front Derailleur

To convert my lonely Wheeler mountain bike into a utility or winter bike, I needed a new front derailleur. I had some road front derailleur in my box, but the routing on the road bike is from low, meaning the cable routing is parallel with the down tube.

I had an FD-CX70 Top Pull front derailleur for top cable tube routing, but it was designed for a double chainring. I couldn't use it, so I had to purchase a new one. Since my new crankset would come with a 44T front wheel, the new derailleur needed to be compatible with a future upgrade to 48T. I visited my friend who owns a bike parts shop, but he wasn't sure if the available option would fit.

So, I checked online and found a Shimano LX FD-T660/661 front derailleur in its original box with the original packaging, the red height sticker, and the plastic spacer for the front chainwheel.

Price

For this old part in original box I bought for NTD 500 (~USD 16.00)

+ shipping NTD 60 (~USD 2.00)

= total NTD 560 or USD 18.00

Shimano LX Trekking Background

According to the Japanese manufacturer:

Trekking Components Series Combining Elegant Design and Robust Build

Shimano Deore LX appeared in 1990 as a model with further improved operability and safety that was easy for even entry-level users to handle. L and LX was derived from 'Luxury'. Shimano even dedicated a whole webpage about this group, you can click here, if interested.

Trekking Components Series Combining Elegant Design and Robust Build

Technical Specification:

Model No.	FD-T660/FD-T661
Front Chainwheel Tooth Difference	22T
Min. difference between top and intermediate	12T
Front derailleur installation band diameter	S: 28.6mm, M: 31.8mm, L: 34.9mm
Chainstay angle:	63-66 degrees, 66-69 degrees
Applicable chain line	50mm
Applicable front chainwheel	44T/48T

Assembling:

My FD-T660/661 front derailleur arrived as NOS (new old stock), complete with the integrated clamp and original bolt, just as I expected. I opened the clamp and loosely secured it. After adjusting the height using the red sticker and ensuring it was parallel to the front chainring, I tightened the bolt.

Once I removed the plastic piece from the derailleur, the cage fell over the smallest chainring. At that point, I decided to put on the chain, threading it over the front inner chainring, through the rear cassette and rear derailleur, and connecting it where the chain would meet.

I ensured that the left (rear) shifter was set to its lowest gear position and threaded the inner cable, along with the appropriately sized outer cables, over the top tube and down the seat tube, securing it lightly with the derailleur's cable screw. I visually checked that the cable was routed correctly and passed through every cable stop along the way. Everything seemed in order, and I made sure the barrel adjuster on the shifter was in its closest position. I loosened the derailleur screw, pulled the cable near it, and tightened it securely. The cable wasn't as tight as I expected, so I turned the barrel adjuster on the shifter twice, and it felt tighter.

I placed my rear wheel on a stand and began turning the pedals. As the chain moved, I shifted from the lowest to the second gear, and the chain followed smoothly. Encouraged by this, I kept pedaling and switched to the largest chainring. Feeling successful, I shifted back to the second chainring and then to the lowest. I was pleasantly surprised that everything worked so well, despite my limited knowledge. I believe most of the credit for this success goes to Shimano for their excellent design and the original packaging I found online. I could have opted for a cheaper second-hand part, but with worn and damaged parts, issues would surely arise as 'amen' in church...

On the Road

The real test is, of course, running the setup on the road, under various circumstances. Front setup is

-Shifter: Sram X7, 3-speed

-Crankset: A no-name red anodized crankset with traditional square bb

-Derailleur: Shimano FD-T660/661

-Chain: KMC 9-speed

As the saying goes, everything 9-speed is compatible throughout the manufacturers and range, if Shimano, Sram or Campagnolo or all other group sets. After riding with my setup, I was surprised how good the gears were moving across the range. The front derailleur behaved like a click--shift, one click - one shift, if uphill or downhill even I had a left Sram shifter working with the Shimano front derailleur. I would not try to shift directly from the highest to the lowest chainwheel (or vice versa) directly, I always let the chain rest on the middle ring.

Coming from a road bike background, the 44T (teeth) chainring is too low for my liking. With the 11T on the rear, I spin my gear out often. I only ride on roads, even with the heavier bike, a 48T upgrade would make more sense.

Great Shifting Performance even when Riding in the Rain...

Generally, the quality of old Shimano medium to high road and mountain bike parts is very great and hard-wearing. I have used some of them for over 10 years. Yes, there are developments especially in the electronic and top end field of shifting, but for us un-professional daily cyclists, there are many low-priced reliable alternatives out there.

I have yet to encounter anyone who developed sore hands from using mechanical shifters or missed their afternoon tea due to joint pain. Meanwhile, I set aside money for a larger cup of coffee and a more delicious cake. And that's what cycling is about, at least for me...

Keep on Riding, Gerhard